![]() If you are using knitting worsted which has a lot of spring in it, you’ll just want to be careful when placing it in the shed to not pull on the yarn too much-aiding draw in. If it fills the space, this is a good candidate for your tapestry sampler. To determine the correct size of yarn, hold it (or a few strands, if its fine) up between two warp threads. A readily available singles is Lamb’s Pride from Brown Sheep. I’m using Jameson Spindrift which is a 2-ply woolen yarn, 3 ends as one. Yarn: Wool yarn will probably be the easiest to work with. Weaving stick: I find this handy for bubbling, but you can use your fingers, the point of a knitting needle, tapestry bobbin, or bodkin. ![]() Just try to crank up the tension as much as you can. Loom: I’m using the new Arras Tapestry Loom, but you can weave along on just about any loom you have. If you find that you are struggling to cover the warp, either your warps are drawing in or are too close, your weft is too big, or you don’t have enough tension. You don’t need to beat very hard which can wear out body parts. Taping a little weight on the back of it will give it more umph. Short stick shuttles: If you have them, otherwise, you can make butterflies-this is a pretty narrow warp, so carrying the weft across by hand is easy.īeater: I’m using the Schacht single ended tapestry beater, but you can also use a fork. With some plied yarns like Harrisville Highland and Weaving Southwest 2-ply, you can take the plies apart and put two different colors together like THIS.From top to bottom: weaving stick, ruler, stick shuttle, tapestry needle, small scissors, single end hand beater, double ended hand beater. Harrisville Highland is an example of a 2-ply yarn that works with one strand at 8 or 10 epi. It is too fat to use two strands at that sett. Lamb's Pride Worsted is a fat single (it is not plied) that works woven at 8 epi by itself. If you are new to tapestry and want to use just one strand of yarn at a time, you're going to have to look for a fatter yarn that matches the warp sett you want to use. You can bundle singles (yarn that is not plied or consists of only one twisted piece of fiber) or plied yarns (yarns that have two or more bits of fiber twisted together in a consistent way) if they are thin enough to use more than one together. Using a yarn that is very thin that you can bundle in the weaving gives you more color options. Thin yarns you can use multiples of in a weft bundle versus a thick yarn you'd only use one strand of. If you are weaving something for which you want 5 reds in gradation, most commercial yarn sources are not going to provide that (with the notable exceptions of Weaver's Bazaar, Australian Tapestry Workshop Yarn, and Paternayan). Many commercially dyed yarns don't come in that many colors. If you're not a dyer, color choice is going to be very important to you. When a yarn wants to bounce back on itself (as a nice knitting wool will do), it will want to do that in your weaving which causes problems with weft tension and makes your edges draw in.Ĭolor choice. They have a lot of air in them which makes them lovely for knitted garments but terrible for weft-faced weaving.Ī yarn that doesn't have a whole lot of end-to-end stretch in it. Lofty yarns pack in too much which means you have to weave many more picks to fill in your forms. My thoughts have changed a little since then, but the yarns I talk about there are still solid choices.Ī firm yarn that is not lofty. I wrote a blog post on this subject in 2013 and you can see it HERE. I live in the USA, so I mostly talk about yarns that are easily available here with one favorite exception from the UK. ![]() Throw in the need for a large color choice for tapestry weaving, and the options do narrow somewhat. And it can be even harder to purchase yarn that has those characteristics. In fact, there is so much variety in yarns it is rather hard to qualify what are the best combination of characteristics. ![]() If you're newer to weaving, you may not realize that not all yarns are made equal.
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